Mongolia Solo

A journey across the open spaces of Mongolia: sacred valleys, desert, canyons and monasteries set into the rock. From Ulaanbaatar to the granite hills of the Middle Gobi, from the gorges of the South Gobi to the singing dunes of Khongoryn Els, we cover hundreds of kilometres on dirt tracks and back roads, sleeping in traditional gers and living close to nature. On the way we meet nomad families, visit old places of worship and stay in ger camps on the shores of volcanic lakes, through landscapes shaped by wind and history, where the colour of the earth seems to change at every bend. It runs in three parts.

Steppe, old capitals and sacred mountains. Ulaanbaatar is a first taste of the country, a mix of modern towers, Soviet blocks and old temples, with Gandan monastery and the Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan. Then we head west across steppe dotted with herds of horses and camels to the rock formations of Khogno Khan, where a small ruined monastery sits among the cliffs. Kharkhorin, the old capital of the Mongol empire, still has its charm: the walled monastery of Erdene Zuu with its 108 stupas, one of the most important in the country, and a museum on the beginnings of the empire. We continue to the golden dunes of Elsen Tasarkhai, where you can take a short ride on a Bactrian camel, and on to the quiet shores of Ögii lake. Around Tsetserleg, capital of Arkhangai province, we visit small hilltop temples and sacred places such as Taikhar rock.

Volcanoes, canyons and the nomad heart of Mongolia. Further west we cross Chuluut canyon, cut into basalt by ancient eruptions and known for the taimen, the giant Siberian salmon. The scenery changes to green hills, deep canyons and hidden waterfalls. We reach Khorgo, an extinct volcano, and the lake of Terkhiin Tsagaan, a perfect place for walks and quiet hours among gers on the water’s edge. On the way we visit herding camps, watch airag being made, join in local games and see everyday life on the steppe. Then south through the Orkhon valley and its waterfall, with short walks, to the open-air hot springs of Tsenkher. In Khangai Nuruu National Park a short trek or ride brings us to Tövkhön monastery, hidden among the forests and mountains. The tracks get rougher and the distances longer, but the open land and the nights under the stars make up for it.

Airag is the true taste of the steppe. Few things are so bound up with nomad life as this drink of fermented mare’s milk. It is offered to every guest as a sign of welcome and respect, and it is made by stirring the milk for hours in a large wooden vessel until it ferments lightly. The taste is sour and strong, and many people do not like it the first time. It is drunk above all in summer, when the mares are nursing their foals and give more milk. Sharing a bowl in a family’s ger is about more than taste: it is a small rite, an invitation to share time and stories. We will have the chance to try it in nomad homes along the way.

From the Gobi to the temples of the east. In the last part we cross the middle of the country to the ruins of Ongi monastery, a silent reminder of the religious persecution of the 20th century. From there we go south, where the land grows drier and the colours change. We explore the Yol valley, with narrow gorges such as the Eagle Canyon and many birds of prey, and climb Khongoryn Els, dunes that run for more than 80 km across the Gobi. We also visit local farming projects that hold out in the desert, and Bayanzag, the Flaming Cliffs, famous for their fossils.

The journey ends with Mongolian spirituality at Khamar monastery and Shambala, a ceremonial site considered one of the most powerful energy centres in Asia, with stupas, offering rituals and symbolic paths that give us time to look back on the road travelled. We return to Ulaanbaatar for a last day in the city and its life today.